The first step is to install the blocks and ribs. “The Rebecca” is based on a Strad (the Provigny) pattern. The blocks are willow and glued to the mold. The ribs are planed to a thickness of about 1.2 mm and then bent to shape. Below is a picture of the blocks and the c-ribs [...]
Today we start “The Rebecca”. Below is a picture of the wood I have selected for this violin. There is a nicely flamed piece of Bosnian maple for the back and sides and a very nice piece of split Italian spruce for the top. The linings and blocks will be made from willow. The [...]
With the corpus finished, we are ready to make and install a neck. We start with the raw material, a neck block and finger board.
We first use a template to trace the shape of the neck on the neck block. We cut out the shape and drill the peg holes.
Next we pare away the excess [...]
With all of the pieces done, it is time to put it all together. The first step is to remove the rib assembly from the form and trim the blocks and linings.
Next we glue the back on.
At this point, I like to clean everything up and apply a very thin coat of propolis spirit varnish [...]
The bass bar is a piece of spruce about 6 mm wide that runs the length of the top underneath the bass foot of the bridge. It provides rigidity for the top and enhances the lower frequencies. Its proper installation is critical to the tone of the instrument.
The first step is to cut a piece [...]
The top is now ready to receive f-holes. The location and size of the f-holes is very critical to the tone and function of the violin. The first step is to accurately locate the holes.
After the holes are located, I cut out the holes.
Then, using a hand saw I cut out the shape of the [...]
The steps for continuing with the top are the same as for the back. The next step is to cut the purfling channel and install the purfling.
Then using the gouge, we bring the arching down to the level of the purfling.
Now, as for the back, we refine the arching using finger planes and scrapers, cut [...]
With the back done, we turn our attention to the top. The steps are the same as for the back.
First we glue the pieces together. Again a perfect joint is required.
Next we use the ribs to layout the outline.
We saw just outside the layout lines.
Rough in the arching.
Finish the outline and purfling platform.
we are now [...]
With the thickness of the back carved to nominal values, it is time to tune the plate. We want the plate to vibrate freely but we also want it stiff enough to provide carrying power. These two goals are at cross purposes so we have an optimization problem.
Using the work of Carleen Hutchins, I [...]
With the outside of the back done, we turn to removing wood from the inside and graduating the plate. The first step is to remove the bulk of the unnecessary wood. I use a gouge and take the entire inside down to a thickness of about 6mm.
Next I layout the graduation pattern. Since this is [...]